In 2005, while based in Nairobi for Action Against Hunger, I had the opportunity to visit my native Poland during one of my home leaves. On this particular visit, my mother and I decided to travel to Przemyśl, a historic town in the eastern part of the country, near the border with Ukraine. The purpose of our journey was deeply personal—we wanted to pay tribute to my mother’s aunt, the sister of her father, who had lived in Przemyśl and served as the mother superior in a local Catholic convent. She had passed away about a decade earlier, and we were determined to locate her grave and honour her memory.
A Search Through History
Our journey to the Przemyśl Municipal Cemetery turned into an unexpectedly profound experience. The cemetery, vast and enchanting, felt more like an open-air museum. Its paths wound through rows of graves, many of them old and adorned with intricate sculptures, epitaphs, and crosses that seemed to whisper stories from the past.
As we wandered for over three hours searching for her grave, we were captivated by the beauty and history surrounding us. Many tombstones featured bilingual inscriptions in Polish and Ukrainian, a reflection of the region’s complex and shared cultural heritage. Reading these names and imagining the lives behind them was like opening a window into the rich and layered history of Galicia, a region once at the crossroads of empires and traditions.
When we finally found her grave, it was a modest resting place, yet deeply meaningful. Standing there, we spent nearly an hour in quiet reflection, thinking about her remarkable life and legacy. It was a special moment for both of us, a mix of reverence and connection to our family’s past.
Exploring the Splendour of Przemyśl
After our visit to the cemetery, we took some time to explore Przemyśl’s Old Town, a gem of Polish history and architecture. Nestled in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, the town exudes charm and timelessness. Its cobbled streets, lined with colourful townhouses, lead to treasures such as:
• The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist: A stunning blend of Baroque and Renaissance styles, this cathedral is a testament to the town’s religious and architectural heritage.
• The Clock Tower (Zegarowa Tower): Offering panoramic views of Przemyśl and the surrounding area, it was a highlight of our visit.
• The Market Square: A lively yet tranquil space, perfect for soaking in the town’s atmosphere and history.
• Przemyśl Fortress: One of the largest fortress complexes in Europe, built during the Austro-Hungarian period, its remnants are scattered throughout the town and surrounding areas.
The town’s proximity to the border and its dual Polish-Ukrainian cultural influences make it a fascinating and unique place to visit. Its rich history, from medieval times through its Austro-Hungarian past, is visible in every corner.
Our visit to Przemyśl was more than a trip—it was a journey into memory, history, and connection. The search for my great-aunt’s grave became a deeply enriching experience, blending family heritage with the timeless beauty of Przemyśl and its cemetery. Exploring the town added another layer of appreciation for this part of Poland, a region steeped in stories that span centuries.
As we drove back to Nowy Sącz after spending the night in a local hotel, I couldn’t help but reflect on the importance of moments like these—taking time to honour the past, reconnect with roots, and appreciate the beauty and complexity of history. Przemyśl, with its charm and poignancy, remains a treasured memory of that year.