In February 2015, I had the incredible opportunity to visit Mongolia for the first time. The purpose of the trip was to assess the impact of the devastating dzud that winter and assist in designing a humanitarian response project. My journey began with a stopover in Beijing, where I visited the IFRC office to learn about their operations in China and Mongolia. I also managed to explore Beijing’s historic sites, including Tiananmen Square and the surrounding area of the Forbidden City, which left a lasting impression. However, it was in Ulaanbaatar—Mongolia’s capital—that I truly felt a deep connection. Despite its challenges, the city enchanted me and remains one of my favourite places on earth. The Phenomenon of Dzud A dzud is a unique and catastrophic climatic phenomenon that occurs in Mongolia. It involves a harsh winter following a dry summer, creating conditions where livestock cannot access sufficient food. Thick snow covers the ground, and temperatures can plummet to -40°C, making grazing impossible and causing widespread death among livestock, which is the primary livelihood for many Mongolians. In 2015, the dzud was particularly severe, devastating the herding communities and pushing many into poverty. For these nomadic families, livestock is more than an economic resource; it represents a way of life, deeply tied to Mongolian culture and traditions. Losing their animals means losing their livelihood and their heritage. Ulaanbaatar: Migration and Challenges Ulaanbaatar is a city of contrasts, bustling with both energy and challenges. With over half of Mongolia’s population now living in the capital, the city has become a magnet for rural migrants escaping the hardships of life on the steppe. While some seek opportunities in education and employment, many others arrive as a last resort, displaced by economic hardship or environmental disasters like dzud. Challenges for Rural Migrants: • Ger Districts: Many migrants settle in sprawling ger districts on the outskirts of the city, where traditional yurts (gers) are juxtaposed against rapidly expanding urban infrastructure. These areas often lack basic services like sanitation, water, and reliable electricity. • Unemployment and Poverty: Jobs are scarce for unskilled rural migrants, leaving many trapped in cycles of poverty. The inability to find stable work exacerbates social inequality and creates tension in the city. • Cultural Erosion: As people leave rural areas, traditional nomadic practices are disappearing, threatening the cultural fabric of Mongolia. Impact of Mining on Nomadic Life Mongolia’s rich mineral resources—especially coal, copper, and gold—have attracted international companies from China, Russia, and Australia, driving the growth of the mining industry. While mining has boosted the economy, it has also caused significant disruption to the environment and the lives of nomadic herders: • Land Degradation: Mining operations often encroach on grazing lands, making it harder for herders to sustain their livestock. • Water Scarcity: The industry consumes vast amounts of water, leaving less for rural communities. • Forced Displacement: Some herders are forced to abandon their traditional lifestyles and move to urban areas, contributing to the overpopulation and challenges in Ulaanbaatar. Ulaanbaatar: A City of Contrasts Despite its challenges, Ulaanbaatar has a charm that captivated me. Visiting in February, I experienced the bone-chilling cold of winter, with temperatures dropping to -35°C to -40°C. The harsh climate exacerbated the city’s pollution, as residents burned anything they could find—including plastics—to keep warm. The pollution is a serious issue, yet the city’s vibrancy and resilience are undeniable. Ulaanbaatar reminded me of Polish cities in the early post-communist era—marked by chaotic development but also a raw energy and determination to thrive. Walking its streets, I felt a profound connection, a sense of belonging amidst its imperfections. Mongolia, with its breathtaking landscapes and warm-hearted people, left a deep impression on me. However, the challenges facing the country—from the devastating impact of dzuds to the pressures of urbanisation and the environmental toll of mining—are immense. While Ulaanbaatar symbolises the rapid change and adaptation of Mongolia, it also highlights the fragility of a culture at a crossroads, striving to balance tradition and modernity in the face of globalisation and climate challenges. My visit marked the beginning of what I hope will be a long and meaningful connection to this extraordinary country.